Ice Ice Beta

• Respecting Your Limits with JC Dubeau

  If JC Dubeau is known it’s somewhat as a dark horse. Search for JC online and you won’t find any trip reports or beta spraying, but as a soloist with a selfie stick he has surprisingly good photos on IG for someone who likes to keep a low profile. JC is also an older athlete who doesn’t train or project yet he will likely send yours if you let him. 💪So who is this guy?In this episode, we chat about:🧊 How there’s old and there’s bold, but there’s no old-bold climbers🧊 His five goes rule and other principles to climb by🧊 Climbing without a rope more often than with 🧊 Designing gear🧊 And much more🧊 Resources and links:You can follow JC on Instagram — for often glorious fisheye photos — at @jcdubeau.📸: Cover photo courtesy of JC. Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries! Become a member:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member. (For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave us a review!:You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.

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• The Many Stages of a Climbing Career With Enni Bertling

  Enni Bertling has seen it all when it comes to climbing in Finland. When she started she was one of the few climbers in the country, then she helped form the Finnish Ice Climbing Team, and is now the Head of the Youth National Team, among other roles too numerous to list but which also includes routesetting, coaching, and occasionally competing when the mood strikes. Still, despite how it sounds, her path to a professional climbing career was anything but straightforward.In this episode, we chat about:🧊 Transitioning away from scientific research🧊 Winning the first-ever World Cup medal for Finland🧊 How she thinks about coaching and mentoring youth🧊 What the climbing in Finland is like🧊 What you do with only 1 hour of daylight in winter🧊 Resources and linksAs is a trend among many of our guests, Enni keeps a low social profile. But, if you’d like to follow her for occasional updates, her handle is @ennibertling. Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries! Become a member:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member. (For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave us a review!:You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.

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• You Are Already Winning With Pedro Guerra-Zúñiga

  Pedro Guerra-Zúñiga has a fighting spirit — a spirit that especially likes to laugh. Growing up, Pedro expected to get cancer, at some point, probably in his 60s. Fate has a funny disposition, though, so when he was diagnosed with non-Hodgkin lymphoma, Pedro decided to respond on his terms: with humor and a goal of making Team Canada. After all, you never know what can happen. In this episode, we chat about:🧊 How showing up can be the most powerful thing you do🧊 The impact of philosophy on his recovery🧊 Why he likes drytooling so much, beyond being tendon friendly🧊 Training as a larger athlete🧊 Resources and linksYou can follow along with Pedro’s competition season via his Instagram (@peteclimbing). He shares a lot of updates, including tinkering with gear and different training techniques. Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries! Become a member:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member. (For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave us a review!:You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.

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  1:09:46
• A Life of Stoke and Steel with Roger Strong

  Roger Strong made his catch king crab fishing so he could ski and climb the rest of the year. His life was forged by sea and steel, commercial fishing hardening him for both alpinism and captainship.As he says, it was some of the best and worst times.But to continue the metaphor, the metallurgy of life also requires tempering, annealing, and healing too. In this episode, we chat about:🧊 Life and times of commercial crab fishing🧊 Establishing mixed lines in Washington, including the first M8, M9, and M11🧊 Why having a child was the best thing that ever happened to him🧊 Learning to smell the moss"Being part of that environment is as important, if not more important than the accomplishment — humans just put too much value on the summit, too much value on numbers.  I don't know what the difference between 15 a, b, c, and d is, but that's for those people that can do that. And so is their ascent more important than my soloing 5.6, 5.7, 5.8? Maybe it is to them, but, it's the movement, it's the touching the stone, it's the swinging of the ice tool, looking for the perfect swing, looking for the perfect amount of footwork, and it's just this, I'm just always looking for."🎁 GiveawayRoger works for Black Diamond, America’s quintessential climbing company. For this episode, they are generously giving away:🐉 A set of Hydras!Only members of the podcast will be able to enter, luckily, you can become a member for FREE, which gives you access to special giveaways like this (and other goodies).👉 To enter: In this week's newsletter, we share a question which Roger answers in this week's episode. Once you have the answer: 1. Follow @blackdiamond and @ice_ice_beta on Instagram2. DM the answer to the question to @ice_ice_beta3. Comment on Roger's episode post on our Instagram: “#manyheadedbeast” once you’ve sent in your answer📣 Winners will be randomly selected from submissions that meet all the rules on Monday, February 10🧊 Resources and linksYou can follow Roger on Instagram, @roger_strong.If you’d like to learn more about Roger’s accident, this is the video Fitz Cahall produced about his recovery.🧊 Credits📸: Cover photo courtesy of Roger. Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries! Become a member:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member. (For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave us a review!:You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.

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  1:13:37
• Quietly Crushing and Humbly Questioning with Katie McKinstry Stylos

  Does drytooling have a grading problem? Katie McKinstry Stylos is one of top drytoolers in the world, specializing in big roofs. In 2023, Katie sent A Line Above The Sky, becoming the fourth woman to climb D15. This past summer, she returned to project Parallel World (D16/D15+/other?), and she has some questions.While Tomorrow's World is somewhat of a benchmark for grades in drytooling, compared to rock climbing, consensus is hard to come by. Factors such as DTS vs. Yaniro, tactics for manufacturing difficulty, the changing nature of routes, and, human variables, like ego, all play a part in grade discord. In this episode, we chat about:🧊 The complexity of grading at the highest level of drytooling🧊 How you don’t have to comp to crush (or need specialized tools)🧊 Coming to climbing after a competitive horseback riding career🧊 Balancing her roles as an artist, business owner, and climber🧊 Developing new drytooling gloves with Aniiu"There's so many factors in drytooling that can make it complicated. And so, for me, I really want to try to have this general idea of the hard grades around the world so I can give my opinion to help us kind of find a consensus on the grading. And I think, really, what makes the grades of drytooling pretty difficult to figure out is there's, even though we're a small sport, there's a pretty big divide."🧊 Resources and linksTo follow Katie on social, she’s @katie_stylos on Instagram. And to check out her artwork, you can head to hyalitedesigns.com.You can read about her send of A Line Above The Sky here.📸: Cover photo by Cooper Shuman. Credits:Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).This episode was edited by Andrew Salomone of salomonesound.com.And of course, a big thanks to our sponsors, Aniiu Gloves and Furnace Industries! Become a member:Thanks for listening! If you enjoyed the conversation and want to help us do many more episodes like this, please consider becoming a member. (For less than the price of a bougie beer per month!). 🗣️ Leave us a review!:You can also help us out by subscribing to the podcast and leaving us a review on your podcast platform of choice. Reviews are helpful for new listeners that come across the show, and a good rating means Spotify, Apple, and other platforms are more likely to recommend it to others.

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  1:28:57

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