Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one decade at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’...
In early 1983, in a small backwater area in Oregon with less than stellar rock, Smith Rock, sport climbing history was quietly being made. Alan Watts had all but climbed out the cracks in the area and had turned his attention to the blank faces and lasercut aretes. He would have to bend the rules to get it done, but with nobody around to tell him otherwise, he got to work. The result would be not only the climb recognized as the first sport climb in the country, Watt’s Tots, but a short, steep, gymnastic arete that would set off a chain reaction that changed American – and world – climbing culture forever.
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
This episode is supported by our research partner, NOLS: The National Outdoor Leadership School.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
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36:59
David Chambre on Edlinger, Tribout and French Sport Climbing History
Kris chats with French legend David Chambre, the author of one of the best and most beautiful reference books out there for 90’s climbing history, The 9th Grade. David’s previous book, co-written with Jibe Tribout, The 8th Grade, is a treasure trove of French climbing history of the late 1970’s and early to mid 1980’s. They discuss the influence of Patrick Edlinger on both French and world climbing history.
Discussed in the episode:
The difference between the two Patricks.
The rivalry between the Parisians and Edlinger.
Edlinger’s influence on climbing culture.
The effect of fame on Edlinger.
Tribout’s ability to provoke.
French climbing history.
Check out more here!
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Get David's Book The 9th Grade
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
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1:02:17
Jibé Tribout and Arnould T'Kint on Patrick Edlinger and Climbing in the 80's
Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80’s, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T’Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it.
Belgian climbing legend Arnould T’Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a.
Jibé Tribout is a french and world climbing legend who, through the 80’s and 90’s, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c.
They discuss:
Pushing grades in the 80's.
The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit.
The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger.
The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's.
The benefits of friendly competition at the crag.
The first actual comps.
Tribout playing the villain.
Check out more here!
Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
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1:07:45
Patrick Edlinger is a Rock Star
There is no icon of 1980's climbing with the starpower of Patrick Edlinger. Known as Le Blonde, it's estimated that by the mid 1990's, Edlinger was responsible for inspiring 80% of France's climbers to join the sport. Not only was he one of the first to embrace sport climbing, he defined the style and movement of the era.
But the life of the rock star is often one of tragedy. The higher the rise, the further the fall. How would Edlinger deal with being at the top of the mountain?
Check out more here!
Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
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35:00
Kurt Albert and the Birth of Sport Climbing
As the end of the 1970’s neared, climbers, more and more, the world over, were wondering the same thing. “How hard can we climb?
In this setup episode we look at the factors that coalesced right there at the end of the 70's and beginning of the 80's to help pave the way for what we now call sport climbing.
New equipment, new tactics, and most important, ushered in by a German giant named Kurt Albert, were new rules.
Check out more here!
Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE.
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Season Two is generously supported by Rab.
This episode is supported by Tension Climbing.
Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
Written in Stone tells the (mostly) true stories of the most groundbreaking ascents in rock climbing history, one decade at a time. Hosted by Kris Hampton, you’ll hear the narrated, sound designed stories about what led to new levels in climbing, alternated with conversations with today’s top climbers about what inspired them about what went down way back then.
Season Two is focused on the 1980’s. The birth of sport climbing as we know it, the struggles with changing rules and ethics, the women who paved the way for the superstars of the 90s and 00s. Patrick Edlinger, Jerry Moffatt, Wolfgang Gullich, Catherine Destivelle, Lynn Hill, and more.
Like Todd Skinner always said, ”never let the truth get in the way of a good story.”
Italia