Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing Podcast

• #113: A Powerful (and Overlooked) Route Climbing Strategy for Leveling Up!

  In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing. If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode. Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the saw” each season. America’s top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing. So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy? Listen in now to find out! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing... (Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts #76, #53, and #12 4:00 - What is this powerful strategy? 6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route. 13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. Save 15% with checkeout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing 16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy. 18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go! 20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on. 22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold. 23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go. 24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point! 25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send!  27:00 - What to do if you don't send? 29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing? 30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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• #112: EXPERT: Tips for Optimizing Climbing Training with Dr. Thomas Cunningham

  Welcome to the first episode in a special series of performance-focused conversations with my friend, Dr. Thomas Cunningham. In this fast-paced discussion, we dive into a wide range of topics, including tips for optimizing climbing training, injury prevention, key dietary interventions, performance hacks, and the role of self-discipline and sacrifice. We also explore best practices tailored for hard-training climbers over 35. No matter your age, this episode is packed with actionable insights you can start applying today! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Coach Eric Hörst's welcome statement. 0:30 - Introduction of my guest, Thomas Cunningham, MD. 2:40 - Thomas' bio and backstory  3:20 - "Medicine 3.0" ...aka functional medicine to optimize health and performance. 6:00 - Overview of topics we'll be covering today. 7:35 - Tips for older climbers. 10:00 - The importance of being intentional in your training. 11:00 - Eric's use of 2-a-day workouts. 13:00 - Scheduling your workouts. 15:45 - Specificity of training. 17:30 - Strive for "injury avoidance" mindset. 19:50 - Training and time hacks for busy individuals. 21:00 - Thomas' tips for effective cragging and projecting. 24:00 - The benefits of having a home training wall and/or equipment. 27:50 - Eric's "do something every day" MO for older athletes. 29:00 - Scheduling aerobic vs. anaerobic training sessions. 30:30 - A quick review of some popular training and bio-hacks. 31:35 - Daily protein requirements for hard-training climbers. 33:20 - Pros and cons of fasting... 36:00 - Protein timing and use of supplemental protein for reaching daily protein targets. 38:00 - Thomas and Eric serve up a few things they wish they knew when they were younger climbers. 38:45 - Proactive approach to injuries... 40:15 - Learning to listen to your body's sensations...and heeding its warning signals. 41:20 - Developing self-awareness of your recovery status. 42:20 - The vital importance of actual climbing time (over time spent strength and fitness training). 44:45 - Developing better recovery practices. 46:00 - Importance of a proper warm-up process before climbing. 46:45 - The power of self-discipine and sacrifice in the long-term pursuit of your climbing potential. 48:20 - Eric's metaphor of "taking your foot off the break...and going full gas" with your climbing! 50:35 - Wrap up 50:50 - Contact information for Eric -- DM @eric_horst on Instagram 51:10 - Watch this interview on Eric's T4C YouTube channel. Subscribe! 51:15 - Please leave a review on Apple Podcasts 51:40 - Goodbye and "Hörst Out! *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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• #111: Training & Life Upgrades to Send 2025!

  Dear Listener, How about -- together -- we all try to SEND 2025? In other words, let's try to upgrade our thoughts and actions in all we do to make 2025 our best year yet! Towards this end, in this episode I will serve up tips for improving your training, elevating your climbing, and advancing in other important life areas! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Eric's greetings... 0:45 - Introductory comments on striving to live your dream life...in climbing and beyond. 3:38 -  Upgrade #1: Improve your time management to maximize time spent engaged in important activities. 10:33 - Upgrade #2: Level-up your training by cutting the "fluff", adding some novelty, and targeting your weaknesses. 20:10 -  Upgrade #3: Elevate your thoughts and take control of your self-talk to help drive massive action towards your goals. 29:50 - Upgrade #4: Refine your day-to-day nutrition to support energy, focus, strength gains, recovery ability, and injury resistance. *** Calculate your personal protein requirements with this research-based online calculator. *** 37:21 - Upgrade #5: Analyze and better manage your stress levels. Strive to reduce (or eliminate) "bad stress", while seeking out and embracing sources of "good stress." 45:12 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

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• #110: Join My "SEND 2025" Challenge! (deadline to join January 3, 2025)

  In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge! JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever! The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for the new year, but also target bad habits you’d like to change…or other behaviors that are holding you back from reaching the next level in climbing, in your career or relationships, or any other important life area. To serve as your North Star for this challenge, we will ask you to select a specific "Challenge Goal" for the 6 weeks of the contest, as well as set a "Send 2025 Mega Goal" that you'll be working towards throughout the year ahead. We hope that with our encouragement and support you will reach all your goals big or small! ************************************* JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> ************************************* SUPPORT THE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING PODCAST! Visit our sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition at PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

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• #109: Alex Megos Interviews Eric Hörst (What?!)

  The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it! THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.  Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in! Here's a rundown of some key moments: 0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel. 2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing. 5:30 - Some interesting training history. 9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research. 10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance. 10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent. 12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach. 17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training. 20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport. 23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades! 24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers... 29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes. 32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes. 33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance. 36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen. 40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X. 44:00 - The best supplement for climbers? 45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation. 51:00 - Personalized nutrition 52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach. 54:50 - The power of Discipline. 58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals. 58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+? 59:50 - A few questions from listeners... 1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes? 1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same? 1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) 1:08:45 - Nutrient timing. 1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments 1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel! 1:14:00 - Eric's final comments  SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

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