Chris Kalous (The Enormocast) and Andrew Bisharat (Evening Sends) bring 40+ years of combined climbing experience to the mic while they talk to the best and mos...
RunOut #140: Chris Deuto Seeks More in the Mountains
Though just 21, Chris Deuto has already amassed an impressive lifetime of climbing since first starting the sport at age 7. Having ticked 5.14c and V14 and done national-level competitions, Chris has shifted his focus to more alpine-centered climbs, from Aconcagua to Fitz Roy. Most recently, he made the first free rope-solo winter ascent of the Diamond face of Long's Peak in his home state of Colorado. Chris has consciously brought his process-centered approach to the forefront of his climbing, seeking richer experiences rather than just focusing on grades.
But first, your second favorite conspiracy-addled climbing podcasters discuss the curious appearance of "bolts" (big scare quotes) beneath a petroglyph in northeastern Utah. Where did these so-called "bolts" come from, and why, exactly, are climbers to blame? The mystery deepens...
Last but never least, our final bit features the return of a Bend-based musical duo Billy and Box Kid, with their new track, Without the Frills.
Show Notes
Follow Chris Deuto
Chris Deuto profile on Climbing.com
Chris Deuto profile on the Daily Camera
Petroglphy "churnalism" on CBS, KUTV, NYPost, Artnet, Gear Junkie.
Wilderness Watch's hostility toward the PARCA bill
RunOut #101: Will Congress Let Climbers Bolt in Wilderness?
Read: Breaking the Wilderness Bell Jar and There is Just Climbing on Evening Sends
Billy and the Box Kid website
Follow Billy and the Box Kid on Instagram
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast
Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
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1:31:56
RunOut 139: Fred Nicole speaks to the soul of bouldering
Fred Nicole's name is synonymous with hard bouldering. The dude is legend, responsible for establishing the world's first V14 and first V15, always while bringing an artistic, quiet approach that has defined the soul of bouldering for over four decades. Today Fred works as a shoe designer for So Ill, and continues to explore the forests of his native Switzerland—among other areas around the world—for new boulders that capture his imagination.
But first, Chris shares some stories about an escape to what's arguably the best rock in the country, the New River Gorge.
Our Final Bit is from none other than Margo Hayes, the first woman to climb 5.15. This song is called Jaded and it’s off her new album Notes to You.
Show Notes
Follow Fred Nicole on Instagram
Fred Nicole interview with UP Climbing
Dreamtime on Youtube
Follow Margo Hayes on Instagram
Listen to Notes to You wherever you get your music
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast
Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
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1:34:00
RunOut #138: The Bromance of Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold
Today’s guest is climbing's Captain America, Tommy Cadlwell. Tommy’s latest film is called The Devil’s Climb, and it documents an epic adventure in which he and Alex Honnold rode their bike’s to Alaska and enchained all the summits on the striking and infamous Devil’s Thumb massif. The film was pitched as an environmental film, but the directors decided that global warming was less interesting than Tommy and Alex's bromance. We catch up with one of the world's greatest climbers of all time and hear about making this film, and all the other things in life.
But first, we open up the official record book of climbing, and discuss the recent news of Michaela Kirsh becoming the first woman to do a V15 and 5.15a, Babsi Zangerl’s flash of Freerider, and other achievements.
For our final bit, we're pleased to share the heady music of longtime climber Dave Pomeranz's band, Whale Fall, with their track Chronophobia.
Show Notes
Watch the trailer for The Devil's Climb and stream the whole film on Disney+.
Sign up for Tommy Caldwell's newsletter Routefinding at Patagonia
Michaela Kiersch becomes first woman to send 5.15 and V15
Setting and Revising the Record on Evening Sends
Whale Fall on Bandcamp and Spotify
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast
Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
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1:17:51
RunOut 137: The Revelations of Jerry Moffatt
Today we’re honored to be speaking with Jerry Moffatt. Jerry was one of the most influential and best climbers in the 1980s and ‘90s, whose groundbreaking first ascents pushed the limits and also was incredibly influential on the direction of our sport. His autobiography Revelations is one of the best climbing books ever, and a must read for everyone who listens to this show.
But first, we break down the news of the closures at Mt. Arapiles in Australia. Mt. Arapiles is arguably Australia’s best, most historic crag, and is widely considered to have some of the finest stone of any crag on earth. Now, nearly half of that climbing is being shut down. But why? It’s a complicated question, involving special interests and the government’s unwillingness to rein them in, alongside a general animosity toward climbers.
Last, our final bit is from Seattle based Mamas New Cult featuring Zoey Huynh.
Show Notes
Buy Jerry Moffatt’s book “Revelations”
Visit SaveGrampians.org
Sign this open letter
Change.org Petition
Donate to the Climb Victoria Advocacy Fund
Tattoo Artist Zoey Huynh
Mamas New Cult on Spotify
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
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RunOut 136: Brady Robinson on Climbing, Advocacy, and the legacy of Armando Menocal
Armando Menocal was a civil rights lawyer and climber who helped found the Access Fund. It’s safe to say that without Armando’s silent but hugely significant contributions, climbing would look very different today. Sadly, Armando recently died at the age of 83 from cancer. Here today to help memorialize Armando is Armando’s friend and colleague Brady Robinson. Brady is the former Executive Director of the Access Fund. He is a veteran of numerous expeditions, with first ascents in Pakistan, Patagonia, and Peru. Today he works as the director of philanthropy at the Freja Foundation and is working on conservation projects in South America.
But first, your hosts listen to another climbing podcast, get redpilled, freak out, and launch into a conspiracy of our own about Jimmy Chin and Sandy Irvine. Something’s afoot on Everest …
For today’s final bit, climber / musician Jessica Roki Kilroy is back with Right Here Remix. Roki is a climber and musician from Montana, whose experimental, brooding, emotional folk music incorporates the sounds of the natural world, including those that she captured while on El Cap.
Show Notes
“Remembering Armando Menocal” on Climbing
Cuba Climbing
Armando Fund on Access Fund
Freyja Foundation
The Nugget’s Instagram
Remains of Andrew 'Sandy' Irvine believed to have been found on Everest
Rokifolk.com
Follow Jessica Roki Kilroy on Instagram
Jessica Roki Kilroy Bandcamp
Jessica Roki Kilroy on Spotify
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. [email protected] // [email protected]
Chris Kalous (The Enormocast) and Andrew Bisharat (Evening Sends) bring 40+ years of combined climbing experience to the mic while they talk to the best and most interesting people in climbing. The hosts take on rock climbing, bouldering, ice climbing, alpinism, comp climbing, all the climbing. No subject is left out or climbing dogma unexamined. You may not agree with the take, but you’ll likely laugh about it later.
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